Executive Committee

Pierre Legreneur

President

Born in 1966, Pierre Legreneur is Assistant Professor at the faculty of Sport Sciences of Lyon (France). It's expertise is biomechanics of sport climbing.

Vanesa España-Romero

Vice President

Vanesa finished her PhD at the University of Granada (Spain) and completed her post Doc in Finland, Sweden, United States and UK. As a climber for over 20 years and a Professor at the University of Cadiz (Spain), She has been researching and teaching specifically in rock climbing for years. All of her research varying aspects of Exercise Physiology, Athletic Training, Fitness, Physical Activity and Sports Sciences. Last climbing project performed was named “Climbing High Performance International Project (C-HIPPER Project)”

Taylor Reed

Secretary

Taylor contracts for the United States government as a Senior Analyst specializing in systems thinking, strategy, and long-range planning for catastrophic disasters.  He uses many of the same skills, tools, and approaches from his day job in his approach to teaching climbing to youth interested in national and international competition.  His primary interest is on the relationship of technical and physical factors which lead to effective climbing movement.  Taylor has a Master’s degree in International Relations from the University of Denver, where he spent his graduate work focused on political psychology.  He lives in the state of Maryland where he consults with a small handful of athletes and works on his website: www.beta-angel.com

Taylor@beta-angel.com

Ludovic Seifert

Treasurer

Ludovic Seifert is Associate Professor at the Faculty of Sport Sciences at University of Rouen in France. He conducts his research in the field of Motor Learning and Motor Control regarding expertise in sport, movement variability and dynamics of learning. He gained a PhD about expertise and coordination dynamics in swimming at University of Rouen in 2003, then a certification to supervise research in 2010. He is also Mountain Guide certified by IFMGA and now investigates expertise and motor learning in climbing.

Dave Giles

Representative for Europe

Dave works in research and product development at Lattice Training Ltd, a UK based climbing coaching company. His research predominately focuses on sport-specific methods for the assessment of climbing performance and their application. Formally, Dave was a research fellow at the University of Derby (2016 – 2019). His research background is in exercise physiology and psychophysiology, with his PhD focusing on the physiological, psychological and biochemical responses to climbing.

drdagiles@gmail.com

Honorary member

Nick is a Professor of Sport and Exercise Science in the School of Health Sciences at the University of Canterbury, Christchurch, New Zealand.  Nick’s research interests in climbing include sport-specific measurement of climbing fitness and ability, the psychophysiology of climbing and the use of grading scales in climbing.  Nick has been involved in outdoor education in the UK and New Zealand and is a keen climber.

Honorary Member

Andi is a hand surgeon, at Balchrist, University of Zurich. He has been a sportclimber and Alpine climber for over 25 years and is currently Medical Advisor to the Swiss Alpine Club. 

Tino Fuss

Honorary member

Tino is Professor of Health and Sports Technologies in the Centre for Design Innovation at Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne AUS, and the Director of the Smart Cap and Gear program (smart sports and health equipment and wearables). He is also the Editor-in-Chief of the journal SPORTS TECHNOLOGY

Shinji Mizumura

Congress Convenor

Shinji is a Professor of Wellness and Sports Education in the School of Arts and Letters at Meiji University, Tokyo, JAPAN.

His research interests in climbing include training methods for improving the ability of speed climbers, introducing sports climbing culture in Japanese university education, and improving the ability of sport climbing in Asian countries.

The Japan University Sport Climbing Association (JUSCA) was founded by Shinji in 2013, and he has made a significant contribution to the development of both Sport Climbing education and intercollegiate competition in Japanese universities.

Shinji is currently a board of directors of the Japan Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Association (JMSCA) and is responsible for the International Committee and the National Sports Festival Committee. He is a board of directors of the Tokyo Mountaineering Federation (TMF) and a chairperson of the Sport Climbing Bureau of the TMF. 

He has greatly contributed to the improvement of the speed climbing abilities of Japanese athletes as the national coach of the Japan climbing team.

Shinji is a board member of the Japan Wellness Society and a member of the International Welling Institute's International Standing Committee and is committed to spreading the wellness concept not only in Japan but also internationally.

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