Frank Abissi Jr.
Frank Abissi holds a Th.D in Biblical Studies and a Ph.D in Biblical Philology, both From Northwestern Christian University. He has been climbing for the past 52 years having started as a 10 year old in the Boy Scouts. He currently owns two rock climbing gyms in Grand Rapids, Michigan. He has worked in many facets of the outdoor industry over the year. From Mountaineering Guide to Expert Witness for lawsuits. He still actively climbs everything from short sport routes to major routes in the Alps and Andes. His interests span from equipment development to climbing techniques.
Edgardo is a full-time climbing coaching with degree in Physical Education (2005) and master degree in Sports Science by Federal University of Minas Gerais/Brazil (2014). Hi is interested in sport biomechanics and training load on campus board. Climbing since 1995, won regional championships and establishes new big walls routes including Pedra Riscada-MG, one of the largest monoliths of the Americas.
Laura is a sport-orientated physiotherapist based in Alicante, Spain. At the moment she specifies in rock climbing injuries and at the same time works as rock climbing coach for children in indoor climbing gym. In the scientific field she did a research about scapula stabilising muscles and grip strength correlation. Laura is very interested in collaboration and new projects in the field.
With a background long standing background in physiology, I am currently pursing my PhD in human biomechanics at the University of Colorado, Boulder. With an innate curiosity and fascination with the human body and how it functions and moves, I am working to integrate the sport of climbing into my current research surrounding adaptive locomotion and prosthetics. Surrounded by the beautiful Rocky Mountains, rock climbing has become both my mediation, and my obsession.
Claudia has studied sports science with focus on computer science at the Technical University of Darmstadt, Germany. At the University of Augsburg, Germany, she did her doctoral degree to the topic „Skill acquisition training under fatiguing exercise“ and she habilitated in human movement science and training science. At the moment, she is working as a researcher and lecturer in the field of training science at the University of Augsburg. Her favorite sports are women’s soccer and climbing, which also lie in the focus of her research.
Arif Mithat Amca
Arif Mithat is a researcher in Biomechanics Research Group at Hacettepe University Faculty of Sport Sciences in Turkey. After his graduation from the Department of Mathematics at Middle East Technical University, he gained his MSc and PhD in the field of sports biomechanics from the Faculty of Sport Sciences at Hacettepe University. His main research areas are biomechanics of sport movements including motion analysis, modelling and simulations. Since he has been climbing for almost 17 years now, he has a special interest on biomechanics of rock climbing and currently focuses on the relationship between holds, grips and finger force capacity.
Michael L. Anderson
Dr Michael Anderson is an Associate Professor of Engineering Mechanics, at the US Air Force Academy in Colorado. His research interests include the development and evaluation of training protocols for elite climbers, engineering design of training hardware, such as hangboards, and innovative design methodologies applied to rock climbing technology and robotics. Dr Anderson is an expert climber (redpoints to 8c+ and on-sights to 8b) and member of the Trango Climbing Team. He is the co-inventor of the Rock Prodigy Training Center and Forge hangboards and author of The Rock Climber’s Training Manual. Dr Anderson is a registered Professional Engineer, Associate Fellow of the American Institute for Aeronautics and Astronautics (AIAA), and member of the International Sports Engineering Association (ISEA).
Kim is super passionate about climbing. It’s her entire life and it’s the air that she breaths. Kim will do anything to support the sport, and aspires to become more involved in the community that consists of chalky and incredibly personable people. Mostly a boulderer but the sport climbing around where she lives in the bow valley is too incredible to ignore. Really Kim just loves anything and everything to do with climbing, she is happiest with both feet off the ground and on the wall. And that’s a feeling she longs to share with people as well as sharing the thrill and love for the outside walls that she so adores.
Dicle has been climbing for about 13 years.He is a PhD researcher at Ankara University Faculty of Sport Sciences, and the supervisor of Sport Rock Climbing Community of the university. He wants to learn as much as possible about rock climbing.
Nick earned his PhD in Human Performance/Exercise Science at The University of Alabama in 2010, and is an Associate Professor in the Sport Science at Belmont University in Nashville, TN. His primary research interests include using various recovery methods to enhance climbing and artistic gymnastics performance, and increasing strength & mobility of the spine and joints to improve bouldering performance. Currently Nick practices basic gymnastics and enjoys bouldering. He is also certified by ACSM (EP-C) and the NSCA (CSCS), and is also a movement and mobility class instructor at Climb Nashville.
Roberto is a climbing trainer for beginners, amateur, competition (national youth team) and professional climbers (world cup). He wrote his thesis on the “study of the technique on sport climbing” and “training for climbing” and has also written two books on training for climbing (in Italian only). He is interested in different aspects of the human body related to sports and climbing in particular, focusing on Posturology (he has a Master on Posturology), Osteopathy and other complementary disciplines. His next goal is a study on climbing technique with a 3D climbing movement video analysis.
Paul Baker is a nutrition Ph.D. student at Florida State University, where he is investigating physiological adaptations to normobaric hypoxia. His interest in rock climbing began during his time at the University of Kentucky, climbing at the recreation center and eventually outdoors at the red river gorge. He aims to use his expertise in nutrition and exercise physiology to aid climbers, expand the current literature, and progress the sport to new heights. Paul is highly interested in collaborating with fellow members and projects in the field.
I am Ph.D. student in Coastal Management at University of Cadiz, funded by Erasmus Mundus Program. As a passionate climber and environmental activist I devoted my professional interest towards the research subjects related to methods for evaluation of management effectiveness of protected areas with particular emphasis on integration of social science and conservation of natural resources. My Ph.D. project is set out in Paklenica National Park in Croatia, which is recognized as one of the famous European rock climbing destinations. In general, my Ph.D. research lines examine: (i) visitor´s and local stakeholder’s attitudes toward the benefits provided by protected areas (ii) visitors characteristic and behaviour patterns in respect to their recreational activities. I truly believe that my multidisciplinary professional profile and climbing experience could expand the research spectra of IRCRA and thus effectively contribute to its future development.
Miguel Barrios started to climb 10 years ago, combining intensive climbing periods and some
serious injuries. He graduated in Physical Activity and Sports Sciences degree in 2014 researching about rock
climbing as mechanism to reduce stress and anxiety levels in undergraduate women. Nowadays, training people to improve their health and climbers which want to achieve a better performance is his job. Moreover, He is studying a master in which He is doing a research about “Therapeutic Climbing” and its benefits to depressive disorder. He hopes to start a PhD this year and continue researching about climbing, which is his hobby
Thomas has been climbing for more than 20 years in various climbing disciplines from bouldering to big wall. He is a local to the Frankenjura climbing scene (“home of the pulley rupture” ). Thomas has been involved in research on climbing injuries since 2007, collaborating with Andi Schweizer and Volker Schöffl. His special interests are MRI of climber´s fingers and the biomechanics of the A3 PIP joint pulley. He is a specialized Radiologist at the Radiology Department of University of Erlangen.
Jiří gained his PhD at Charles University in Prague in the Czech Republic where he is currently a lecturer and researcher. His specific research interests include structure and testing of climbing performance as well as short and long effects of climbing training in different populations.
Kate is a clinical and performance psychologist, based in Sydney Australia. She has attained a Doctorate in Clinical Psychology, a Masters of Philosophy and a Bachelor of Psychology (Hons). She is a former Australian Army Officer, a humanitarian, and a passionate mountain and outdoors enthusiast. She focuses her work on the navigation of high stress and high consequence environments.
Stuart is a recreational boulderer and climber who has a strong interest in urban liveability. He has a masters in Landscape Architecture from RMIT university where he looked at bouldering and its possibilities to create activity and connectivity in urban environments. Stuart runs a landscape architecture practise called Bouldergeist in Melbourne which focuses on design, research and advocacy of public space urban bouldering facilities and climbable sculpture.
Beverly is currently a graduate student at the University of Utah pursing a M.S. in Kinesiology with an emphasis in Wellness Coaching. Beverly is an ACSM Certified Exercise Physiologist and NETA Certified Personal Trainer with experience training, instructing yoga, and leading group exercise classes with individuals all over the country. While obtaining her B.S. in Exercise Science/Physiology at Minnesota State University, Mankato, Beverly worked and lived summers in Asheville, NC, gaining experiences climbing and working with all ages and abilities. Her current research involves assessing the interaction between self-efficacy/mastery experience, decision making, and high altitude within climbers, mountaineers, and alpinists. Upon graduating, Beverly hopes to train mountain athletes who share her passion for the outdoors and contribute to further research with this population.
Jess began climbing as a new year’s resolution and it completely overhauled her life. Since 2014 she’s changed careers, obtained a Master’s in Exercise Physiology, has become a USAC certified routesetter and has been coaching advanced youth climbers. Jess is currently working for Momentum Indoor Climbing as an instructor, personal trainer and youth coach. Her passion is to educate climbers of all ages and abilities on proper movement, technique, nutrition and training. She hopes to one day attend the Olympics as a coach and mentor for rock climbers.
Danny John Brown
Danny has been climbing and working as a mountaineering instructor and coach for over 25 years working with climbers at all levels. As a Physiotherapist he has worked in clinical; ICU, trauma and orthopaedic, burns and plastics as well as two hand rehabilitation clinics. He specialises in elite youth coaching and treatment as well as screening and has developed injury prevention protocols for coaches and physiotherapists in climbing and skiing. He delivers lectures and training across the UK and abroad as well as engaging in research to inform his own practice. He climbs, cycles and runs.
Ina is a Pediatrician and Sports Physician near Vienna, Austria. She has been the competition doctor for Boulder World Cups in Austria, Switzerland and the UK. She is currently involved in a research project about sports climbing and body posture weakness in children/adolescents. Her main research interests are climbing/mountaineering and health promotion in children as well as in climbing and mountaineering research with adults.
Rômulo is a professor in the School of Physical Education and Sport at the University of São Paulo, Brazil. His research interests include exercise physiology and energy system contribution in endurance sports as well as rock climbing. He has coached a number of Brazilian high performance rock climbers and his athletes have won the Brazilian Rock Climbing Championship five times and been runners-up at the South-American Climbing Championship three times.
Valerio De Biagi
Valerio is a researcher at Politecnico di Torino. He has been practicing climbing and mountaineering for about 15 years. In 2013, he gained his PhD in Structural Mechanics at Politecnico di Torino. His main research topics focus on mountain risks (snow avalanches, rockfalls) and structural robustness. In parallel, he has been conducting studies on technical mountaineering equipment, such as the functioning of camming devices.
Research assistant at Çukurova University department of Physical Education and Sports. National Climber, route setter and supervisor of Çukurova University Mountaineering Club. Special interest is climbing performance and climbing physiology.
Lisa Marie Boden
Lisa is a physiotherapist living, working and studying in Cardiff in Wales ; when not traveling around the world looking for rock and snow adventures. Currently studying a masters in Sports and exercise physiotherapy at Cardiff university, with a special interest in climbing. Her current research is looking into climbers shoulder biomechanics and injuries. She also has an interest in strength and conditioning in sports, for both injury prevention, rehabilitation and performance enhancements.
Kelios Bonetti is a Medical Doctor, orthopaedic surgeon, PHD in orthopaedic and traumatology, over 10 years takes an active interest in climbing pathology. He works with several climbing hardwere factory applying their knowledge to make it more functional and safe, preventing problems related to the climbing pathology. He is a recreational climber and boulderer.
Patrick is a graduate student of Physical Education at the University of Victoria in Canada. He is a graduate of McGill's Physical and Health Education program. His current research explores the effect of various teaching strategies on rock-climbing self-efficacy. In his leisure time, Patrick is either climbing up a mountain, jumping in the air, or paddling through waves.
Félix develops software solutions for rock climbing research. He is studying mechanical engineering specialising in the biomedical field at the "Polytechnique de Montréal" university. He developed software to analyse three-dimensional deformation of the spine and to plan radio-surgical treatment of brain cancer. He is passionate about climbing since 2004. He is working on a climbing specific finger strength performance assessment tool.
Angelica is a graduate from Claremont Graduate University with a master’s in Positive Organizational Psychology & Evaluation, where she learned under the guidance of Dr. Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi, the co-founder of the field of Positive Psychology and a former mountaineer. Her primary research interests are in the development of resilience and grit on individual and group levels, as well as the transference of psychological capital developed through climbing by individuals to positive organizational outcomes. She discovered climbing during her undergraduate studies and has been passionate about sharing her love for the sport with others ever since.
Gary Buckland is a UK-based Performance Coach and Nutritionist working under the name of GB Performance & Nutrition.
He has been climbing recreationally since 2007 and coaching since 2009. Graduating from the University of Bath in 2015 with a BSc in Sports Performance, Gary also completed an MSc in Applied Sports Nutrition at St Mary’s University, Twickenham in 2018. His original research projects have looked at the relationships between varying grip types and abilities in boulderers, muscle oxygenation and dietary nitrate supplementation, and trialling new technologies to assess the physical capabilities of climbers.
Working predominantly with rock climbers, Gary uses an evidence-based approach to provide nutritional support, complete physical assessments, and implement training plans. He continually strives to improve his practice and aims to add to the depth of knowledge in climbing research. His website can be found at: gbpnutrition.com
Dr. Matthew Bulman is a chiropractor with an interest in treating rock climbers. He is founder of The Climber's Clinic at Sports N Spine, Australia's leading rock climbing injury management center. Dr. Bulman is on the Sports Medicine Australia Council of NSW, and has been the official medical supervisor for Sports Climbing Australia, offering free support for the rock climbing community at SCA events. He often runs injury prevention and management workshops for climbers at local gyms with the aim to promote safety. He is currently interested in researching the epidemiology of bouldering injuries at indoor climbing gyms in NSW.
Mathematician and climber. I view climbing as a dual-nature activity: A pure enjoyment of movement similar to dancing, and as problem solving--akin to mathematics. Currently studying how to streamline training for climbing for efficacy and efficiency. As a martial artist, I'm also interested in how the kind of mentation seen in Eastern philosophies could be used to induce and enhance the "flow state" in climbers as described by Csikszentmihalyi, et al.
David P. Carter
David is an Assistant Professor of Public Policy at the University of Utah’s Department of Political Science. His research examines collective action and self-governance within rock climbing communities, with current projects focusing on how the changing composition of many communities is transforming climbing ethics and norms. David has been climbing since 2002, with an emphasis on traditional, ice, and alpine climbing. He serves on the Policy and Conservation Committee of the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance.
Jorge Couceiro Canalejo
Jorge Couceiro Canalejo teaches mountaineering, tourism, leisure and sport at the Universidad Politécnica of Madrid (Spain). He began rock climbing in 1982 and is still an active climber and climbing coach. Jorge has participated and organized climbing competitions and climbing expeditions.
Jorge completed his PhD Thesis in 2010. His thesis analyzed the psycho-physiological responses of climbers to bouldering and lead sport climbing. During the year 2010, he moved to New Zealand to collaborate with Dr. Nick Draper and his research team in Canterbury University, Christchurch.
Tallie Casucci is an Assistant Librarian at the University of Utah, Utah, United States of America. Tallie obtained her BA in Exercise and Sport Science at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill, North Carolina, USA. In 2012, she completed a Master of Information and Library Sciences at the University of Pittsburgh, Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA, with a specialization in health resources and services. During her master degree studies she examined the information-seeking behaviors of rock climbers for injury prevention and care.
Rebecca is a physical therapist specializing in orthopedics, sports, and manual physical therapy. Becca is a full time clinician in Seattle, WA USA and enjoys treating her fellow climbers from the bouldering gym and local alpine climbers. She has a extensive background in biomechanics and exercise rehabilitation. She teaches postdoctoral level continuing education courses for physical therapists both nationally and internationally. Becca has been climbing for over 15 years and is a member of the Seattle Mountaineers, Climbers for Christ organizations. She is also volunteer instructor for the Mountaineers in both their basic and intermediate climbing courses. Becca enjoys multi-pitch rock, glacier ice, and the plentiful alpine climbing of the Cascade Range.
Liu Changzhong is a precursor of China rock climbing, with over 20 years' climbing experience. He served as the earliest captain of Chinese national rock-climbing team. Liu is founder of the Chinese well-known climbing training institute LCZ Climbing School. His book “岩之有道” is the best-selling rock climbing book in China. He's dedicating in promoting and spreading rock climbing sports in China, and doing research of rock climbing training system.
I obtained my PhD degree in Biology from Nanyang Technological University, Singapore in February,2015. Sport has been a vital part of my curriculum since childhood. I was a competitive tennis player but an ankle injury put me out. Once out of professional sport I focused on fitness and recreational sport mainly in the form of running and yoga. I was introduced to rock climbing in Singapore during the course of my PhD studies and developed a deep passion for it. At present I climb at least 3 times a week at an indoor gym that trains national athletes. I hope to build a career that can harness both my passion for sport and research and a career in rock climbing research is one that combines both. At present I am working on oxidative stress and diet induced lipid homeostasis disruption.
Stian has climbed from a young age, but he got more seriously into sport- and competition climbing by the age of 13. He competed internationally for some years, reaching WC semi-finals at best, but he had retired from the competitions by the age of 19 to focus more on outdoor climbing. Stian spent nearly one and a half year climbing in Spain and France before moving home and starting his education as a physiotherapist. Through both studies and work he continued to train and climb, and over the past years he has won the Norwegian Bouldering Championship and done 8c routes and 8B boulders. In 2011 Stian took the job as coach for the Norwegian National Team, combining this with his clinical practice and an elite coaching education through the Norwegian School of Sport Science and the Norwegian Olympic Center. From 2016 he will be in charge of the federation’s education system for coaches, combining this working in a large clinical practice where he specializes in climbing related injuries. In the future Stian's goal is to do a MSc on climbing related injuries and strength training, hopefully adding something to the growing body of climbing related research.
Oliver is a Physiotherapist from the University of Queensland, Australia with a special interest in adventure sports, particularly rock climbing. Oliver is based in Brisbane, Queensland where is committed to applying evidence based practice regarding the assessment, management and rehabilitation of all musculoskeletal rock climbing injuries.
Antonio Coelho, is a researcher at Engagelab, University of Minho, Portugal. He has a degree in Multimedia Design and a master's degree in Technology and Digital Art. He works with tangible interfaces and biosignals, as a means of "biofeedback " and develops technological interfaces to improve performance and autonomy for climbers with disabilities. As a climber and mountaineer, he climbed some of the highest mountains in Europe, as MontBlanc, Matterhorn and Elbrus and in the Himalayas, was João Garcia’s partner ( 10º Summiter of 14x8000m without O2 ), Pumori, Amadablam and survived a Kangchenjunga C1 appendicitis in 2006. Also collaborates, as an instructor at the Portuguese Federation of Camping and Mountaineering in the training of professional technical mountain sports.
Alessandro is a professor of Control Theory and Nonlinear Dynamics at Politecnico di Milano, and a mountaineering instructor of CAI (the Italian Alpine Club). His research interests include applications of engineering to better measure and understand climbing performance, and to improve safety in climbing and mountaineering.
Dr. Carrie Cooper is a climbing ambassador for PETZL, LaSportiva and prAna. She has been climbing for over 20 years and was a professional climber for 10 years before going back to school and receiving her Doctor of Physical Therapy in 2014. Since then she has been working with elite level climbers and outdoor athletes. With over 20 years of experience teaching movement, Pilates, and dance she has a unique eye for body mechanics. She is a guest lecturer at her Alma Mater, The University of Utah. She is looking forward to her first research publication and has a special interest in Climbing Medicine Research. She has two children and lives with her family in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Dave is a lecturer at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology where he sometimes supervises student research on climbing equipment, including the cyclic loading failure of carabiners and ice screw failure. He has been the American Alpine Club’s delegate to the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) safety Commission since 2003 and is finishing a term as president of the UIAA Safety Commission (2012-2016). Other standards work includes stints with the CWA (Climbing Wall Association) and the ASTM (formerly the American Society for Testing and Materials, now ASTM International). Non-standards service includes participation on the negotiated rules committee convened by the US Department of Agriculture regarding anchors in wilderness.
Tyler is a sports medicine physical therapist and athletic trainer practicing at Duke University Sports Medicine in Durham, North Carolina. Tyler treats a variety of orthopedic and sports injuries but has a special interest in treating rock climbing-related injuries. Currently, he is conducting research projects at Duke regarding climbing-related injuries. Tyler hopes to create a strong base for climbing related research and treatment in the southeast region of the US at Duke. Outside of the clinic and research, Tyler writes and maintains a blog and social media presence to help clinicians stay current with best practice and research with his site, Ortho Hub.
I'm a lecturer and Ph.D. student in University School of Physical Education in Wroclaw (Poland). I'm also a sport climbing trainer and a member of Polish Mountain Rescue Group (GOPR). I'm also a member of Polish Mountain Medicine and Rescue Society. In winter: ski and snowboard trainer.My research interests are focused on sport psychology, that is: anxiety in rock climbing, anxiety and emotions in extreme sports, psychology of outdoor activities.
Rudson Santos da Silva
Graduated in Physical Education from the Federal University of Rio de Janeiro (UFRJ - 2016). Master in clinical research from the Oswaldo Cruz Foundation at the National Institute of Infectology - INI / Fiocruz with the line of research in cardiac rehabilitation in chronic Chagas' heart disease. Currently, he participates as a researcher in the Laboratory of Clinical Research in Chagas Diseases, also acting in the Cardiac Rehabilitation Program (INI-FIOCRUZ). He has experience in Physical Education with an emphasis on Exercise Physiology and lines of research in Chagas' heart disease, heart failure and cardiac rehabilitation. Climber with 3 years of experience, interested in training for rock climbers.
Verya Daeichin is a researcher, climbing coach, and a setter with about 10 years of experience. He has obtained his PhD degree in biomedical Engineering from Erasmus Medical Center, Rotterdam, the Netherlands in 2015 and he is currently a researcher at the department of imaging physics at the Delft University of Technology in the Netherlands. In his current research, he applies state of the art ultrasound imaging for understanding the electromechanical pathways involved in muscles contraction and force production.
Tabitha graduated from the University of Chichester in the UK with a first class honours degree in Adventure Education. Her research area is in the psychophysiology of rock climbing with specific interests in sports specific performance assessment in rock climbing, and oxygen uptake kinetics and energy system contribution in climbers differing in ability level.
Zack DiCristino, MSPT, OCS, SCS is a physical therapist practicing for 14 years and has been rock climbing for 17 years. He is team therapist for the USA Climbing Teams and works with climbers at the competitive and professional levels. He has degrees in Exercise Science and Physical Therapy, and is a board-certified orthopedic and sports specialist. He has worked with Stanford-University student athletes from 36 teams that included gymnastics, soccer, and others. He served as lead therapist for the Track and Field / Cross Country and football teams.
Zack resides in Vail, Colorado. His special interests are in return to sport/activity-integration progressions for running and rock-climbing athletes. His passions include sport climbing and traveling.
Lars is a training science post-doctoral research assistant at the institute of exercise and health science at the university of Basel. His research interests focus on health promotion in children, adults and seniors as well as strength, balance and endurance measures. Additionally, his climbing research interest is on asymmetry of load application and physical performance diagnosis in sport climbing.
Scott earned a PhD in Exercise Physiology at the University of Northern Colorado and is currently an Associate Professor in Exercise Science at Northern Michigan University in Marquette, MI USA. His research interests are varied and include ultra endurance running, active worksite stations, exercise in normobaric hypoxia and weight loss, and physiology of rock climbing. In particular, Scott is interested in climbing entropy of lead versus top rope ascents along with assessment of performance variables, such as heart rate, rating of perceived exertion, lactate levels, and oxygen cost of various climbing routes.
Guillaume is a Ph.D. student in Social Anthropology at the Autonomous University of Madrid, Spain, and in Sport and Techniques of Physical Activities, at the University of Lyon 1, France, conducting ethnographic research on the professionalization of elite climbers based at the physical sites of climbing professionalization (e.g. climbing gyms, climbing areas, professional events) but also in their virtualities (e.g. visual productions, climbers and climbing websites, social media and networks).
Veera is a sport sociologist and a Ph.D. student in Media and Global
Communication at the University of Helsinki. Her research interests
include sports online communities and networking in sports culture.
Her studies focus on the communicational possibilities social media
sites offer rock climbers, as well as how rock climbers create
networks and communality in social media.
Hassan is a professor in the Department of Physical Education at the Federal University of Rio Grande do Norte, Natal, Brazil. His research interests include psychophysiological responses, brain and emotional regulation in different sports as well as rock climbing. He is interested on indoor and outdoor rock climbing on health promotion in various populations including athletes and those with chronic disease or disability.
Yasser is a plastic surgeon, fellowship-trained in hand and microsurgery. His clinical practice is in hand,wrist and peripheral nerve surgery. He is corresponding member of the UIAA Medical Commission, founder/director of The Canadian Climbing Medicine Symposium and Climbing Medicine Canada, and medical and strength training consultant for Joe Rockhead’s Climbing Gym in Toronto. Yasser has been sport climbing and bouldering for over 25 years, and continues to be a hopeless fanatic of the sport.
Julia is a Ph.D student at Universidad Complutense in Madrid, Spain. She is currently writing her thesis about Climbing as an Educational Tool basing her research on a case study of a climbing innovative program in a public school located in the National Park of Guadarrama, which holds one of the famous climbing schools in the country. In this particular scenario she is also working as a climbing teacher for children and climbing trainer with adults. A passionate climber herself, she also works guiding outdoor nature activities related to adventure educational programs. Her research can contribute to the IRCRA community by offering the educational and experiential learning approach to climbing as a tool to encourage and develop a wide range of interesting skillsand abilities on children and young adults.
Maurizio gained his PhD from the University of Verona (Italy), Department of neurological, neuropsychological, morphological and movement sciences, investigating the validity of the measurement tools used to control training load in soccer. Actually I’m working as a fitness coach with Inter Milan an Italian professional soccer team. I have been an athlete in lead sport climbing a coach and instructor of Italian Federation of Sport Climbing and my interest is focused on performance, training and testing.
Carl Joacim Fensbekk
Carl has been climbing since 2011, with increasing interest for training and performance. He got his first experience of climbing earlier, however, moving to Trondheim for his masters degree got him into a good community of climbers, which made climbing his main activity. Focusing mostly on sport climbing and bouldering, with the occational mountaineering and trad climbing. Carls education is in human movement sciences, were he has a bachelors degree from the University College of Hedmark, Norway. Mostly concerning endurance training and block periodization of high intensity intervals. Further Carl has done a masters degree in human movement science from the Norwegian University of Science and Technology in Trondheim. His masters thesis is about the effects of delayed onset muscle soreness on microvascular functions. Carls interests are sports performance training and the effects of physical activity on public health.
Philip Ferrara is an Atlanta, Georgia native, but grew up playing in the mountains of North Carolina. He completed his undergraduate degree in Dietetics at the University of Georgia; but after working in Yosemite National Park for 4 years, he devoted his life to rock climbing. He is now attending Montana State University in Bozeman, Montana where he is working on his master's degree in Exercise Physiology and Nutrition. He will graduate in May 2018.
Fernando Vilela Filho
Fernando Vilela Filho is a Brazilian sport climber with a 10-year experience and ascents up to 8b and 7C boulder problems. He is currently finishing Physical Education graduation in Juiz de Fora Federal University - campus Governador Valadares and learned from tutors like Bianca Miarka, Marília Martins Bandeira and Luis Fernando Deresz in research projects. His graduation paper is in progress and going to be about the effects of 4-week endurance finger training protocol in recreational rock climbers.
Jake Fojtik is a medical student at Humanitas University in Milan, Italy. Hailing from Park City, Utah, Jake is a passionate skier, climber, alpinist, and ski mountaineer. Jake is interested in combining medicine with the mountains, especially in regards to mountain-related trauma and illnesses, human physiology at altitude, and the intersection of strength, conditioning, and nutrition as it pertains to climbing performance. In addition to medicine, Jake is a writer and photographer. When not studying, Jake can be found climbing, skiing, or biking around the Alps.
Simon is a part time lecturer at the University of Canterbury. He researches the psychophysiology of rock climbing; his particular interests are in possible adaptations of advanced performers.
Ulf Fuchslueger has a Ph.D. in chemistry from the Technical University of Vienna and an Executive MBA from the University in Zurich. After having worked for more than 10 years in the pharmaceutical industry he co-founded Vialis AG, a company focussed on process optimization and software implementation in the pharmaceutical and chemical industry. After having worked 10 years as CEO and senior consultant, Vialis AG was sold to a public company. Since then Ulf and his wife are travelling the world in a camper truck, linking rock climbing spots and other beautiful places on their journey. Next to travelling he supports theCrag.com - the world’s largest rock climbing and bouldering platform - as head of business development.
Liliana Roa Gaitán
Physiotherapist at the Universidad del Rosario Colombia with a master's degree in physical activity and sports Universidad Nacional de Colombia with intervention in the recovery of injuries to climbers since 2012 to date with research in the relationship of injuries with different types of power strength (Boulder) and resistance (difficulty) in rock climbers in Bogotá Colombia. Active member of the Colombian Association of Hand Therapists (ASCOTEMA). Certified in various therapeutic techniques for the recovery of injuries derived from sports. Amateur rock climbing for eight years to date.
Ezequiel resides in Colombia. Rock climbing is one of his passions among other outdoor activities. He holds a Masters of Science in High-Performance Sports Training: Strength and Conditioning, from Universidad Catolica de Murcia. He´s also a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist from the Nationa Strength and Conditioning Association. He is Physical Culture, Sports and Recreation graduate. He works as a sports researcher in a Sports Training program. He has worked as an author and co-author in rock climbing research topics. His latest topic being the characterization of sports rock climbers handgrip strength in Bucaramanga, Colombia. He specializes in high-performance sports training.
Vicente Garcia is manager and climbing coach in Rockera muro de escalada in Queretaro, Mex. He specialises in training for competition and outdoor climbing, His been climbing since 2009 and coaching since 2014. He is currently studying about myofascial chains, finger power endurance. Interesting in climbing method research.
Inma is a Sport Psychologist. She has been climbing for more than 18 years including different climbing disciplines, from alpinism to big wall. Inma has been a member of the Spanish Female Mountaineering Team and high performance athlete during 6 years in the Mountaineering modality. She has also been working the mental training for Andalusian youth team and Andalusian Mountaineering Team. Very shortly Inma is going to start her PhD with Vanesa España, on psycologist aspects involved in the high-performance climbing.
Peter is a senior lecturer in the department of Sport, Outdoors and Exercise Science at the University of Derby. His research interests are in skill development and motor performance particularly of rock climbing. Where his recently research focusses on the pattern recognition and attentional focus in the preplanning stages of movement by climbers.
Dave works in research and product development at Lattice Training Ltd, a UK based climbing coaching company. His research predominately focuses on sport-specific methods for the assessment of climbing performance and their application. Formally, Dave was a research fellow at the University of Derby (2016 – 2019). His research background is in exercise physiology and psychophysiology, with his PhD focusing on the physiological, psychological and biochemical responses to climbing.
Gina Blunt Gonzalez
Gina is an Associate Professor of Exercise Science at Morehead State University in Morehead, KY. Her climbing research interests include understanding the psychological factors associated with climbing participation and performance. Other research interests include behavioral interventions to increase physical activity and understanding attitudes and motivations toward dietary supplement use in a variety of populations.
Ioritz Gonzalez Lertxundi is from Azkoitia (Basque Country, near Bilbao, Spain). He is a Biologist specialized in Sport Sanitary area. Nowadays, he is teacher in Sciences area, and also a member of a researchers group that works in the area of climbing injuries. In the last 2-3 years he has been researching about climbing injuries, possible injury risks, consequences of rock climbing, and giving some conferences about it. In addition, he has been a sport climber for over 20 years, reaching 8b+/c redpoint and 7c+ onsight difficulties.
Patrick Wayne Gonzalez
Patrick is an experienced climber and software engineer interested in GeoSpacial application development with a particular interest in terrain feature recognition. As imbedded navigation components (GPS Radios, Compasses, Gyros, Accelerometers) in mobile devices continue to improve, Patrick is researching potential software solutions for climbers and outdoor enthusiasts.
Lecturer at Universidad Anahuac in Mexico with a master's degree in Innovation & Design at Universidad Autonoma de Querétaro, as an Industrial designer, her research field is focused in how product & strategic design can have an impact for the promotion of climbing in people who aren´t related to the sport nor the benefits of it.
Taylor is 21 years of age and currently completing his Exercise and Sport Science degree at ACU, in Sydney. He has been climbing for 10 years and has come from a sporting background consisting of national level swimming and national placings in sport climbing. His recent studies have made him very interested in the science of rock climbing and wanting to contribute to the science being undertaken in our sport. He is currently working as an Assistant Coach with the State climbing team, and coaching top level Australian athletes under First Ascent Climbing Coaching. In his coaching, he is using film technology to perfect technique and allowing his knowledge of sport and coaching to educate athletes. His goal is to raise the standard of competition climbing in Australia to match the high standards that other sports such as swimming and athletics have in the Olympics and the professional era.
Gudmund is PhD candidate in social medicine and a physiotherapist. He has been climbing for 20 some years with hundreds’ of FA´s up to 8b+ routes and 8A boulders. Gudmund has previously worked as a research fellow for 5 years and published several papers on osteoarthritis and quality of care. He wrote his bachelor thesis on training for climbing in 2004; since he has been more and more interested in the science of climbing. In the spring of 2015 he got published with a book on Chronic injuries in Climbing, published by one of the major Norwegian publishers. Gundmund spoke at the National Sports Medicine Congress 2015, based on the scientific research made previous to writing the book. The same work is hopefully being published as a scientific paper during the winter.
Dr Jen Hall is a cultural geographer interested in embodied experiences of extreme and adventure environments in terms of gender, emotion and affect and more broadly in heritage, culture and sports. Her PhD research is titled Women mountaineers: A study of affect, sensoria and emotion. She has used innovative mobile video ethnography within her field research to capture the experiences of female mountaineers. Jen currently lectures at York St John University and lives in North Yorkshire, United Kingdom and is a keen mountaineer, runs ultra-distance mountain marathons and is a member of her local Mountain Rescue Team.
Zachary, has 20 years of climbing experience and is currently studying prosocial behavior, adrenaline threshold and fear tolerance in climbers, climbing communities and police. Zachary, is a member of PCIA, NIRSA, Wilderness Medical Associates and the ARC. He is currently serving as the Assistant Director of Campus Recreation at Western Oregon University in Monmouth Oregon. He guides and teaches climbing all across the United States and has distributed over 1,000 surveys across Mexico and the United States in the quest to expand the knowledge of the sport.
Seth Collings Hawkins
Dr. Seth Collings Hawkins, an assistant professor of emergency medicine at Wake Forest University, holds dual board certification in both emergency medicine and EMS. He currently serves as medical advisor for REI and NC Outward Bound School. He is executive editor of Wilderness Medicine Magazine, co-author of Vertical Aid: Essential Wilderness Medicine for Climbers, Trekkers, and Mountaineers, and editor of the textbook Wilderness EMS. He is co-owner of Vertical Medicine Resources, an innovative climbing medicine company, founder and Chief of the Appalachian Mountain Rescue Team, a member of the Mountain Rescue Association Medical Committee, and author of numerous climbing medicine publications.
René is a sports science master student and research assistant at the Institute of sport science at the University of Constance. His research interests focus primarily on biomechanics, as well as strength, balance and endurance measures and its mechanical and neuronal components. Additionally, he is a climbing and bouldering trainer and tries to explain and understand why some climbers are able to hold the sloper and others are not.
Deak is associate professor in the Department of Psychology at the University of Canterbury. His research interests are the role of attention in performance, skill development, and the measurement of workload and stress. He is currently working on human factors issues in search and rescue, including high-angle search and rescue.
Mika completed her MD in British Columbia. She is now in her final year of rural family medicine residency in Alberta, Canada. She has been climbing for the past 12 years, with a focus on trad and sport climbing. Her interests include rural and remote general practice, wilderness, and mountain medicine. This year, she completed her FAWM and DiMM certifications. She has participated in research related to altitude sickness, and looks forward to becoming involved in more climbing specific projects.
Espen has a master degree in sport science and wrote “The effects of high resistance–few repetitions and low resistance–high repetitions resistance training on climbing performance”. He is working as an assistant professor at Western Norway University of Applied Sciences, where he teaches outdoor education students in the sport of rock climbing and bouldering. Personally interested in training to perform better in climbing (hang board, conventional strength training and core training), and have a couple of interesting intervention coming up.
Among America's best-known climbers, Hill has been a guest at the White House and has been featured on television and in many newspaper and magazine articles. She has produced a film about her all free ascent of the Nose and an autobiography about her life as a climber. Her book is titled, Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World (published by W.W. Norton). Lynn currently lives in Boulder, Colorado where she balances her time between climbing, running, skiing, travels to cool places around the world, and sharing life with her son Owen Merced Lynch.
Chris is a Senior Lecturer at the University of Chichester, UK. He has a PhD from the University of Southampton in human performance in the cold and his research interests include the psychophysiology of adventure sports. He has published on the impact of rock climbing activities on cortisol concentrations and stress and the assessment of fitness for rock climbing. His professional background is in the teaching and coaching of adventure sports including rock climbing, mountaineering and skiing. He is co-author of Adventure Sports Coaching (Routledge).
Somayeh Askari Hosseini
Somayeh Askari Hoseini is a Ph.D. candidate of sports biomechanics at Kharazmi University and teaches at Ferdowsi University as a visiting professor. Before graduating, she gained her M.S and B.S in physical education and sports sciences. She is a climbing coach, route setter and advanced national champion. She`s interested in sports climbing and its related sciences.
Dan is a UK based rock climbing and mountaineering instructor and coach, with a keen interest in the development and evolution of different methods of coaching climbing at all levels. Dan used to be a semi-pro footballer until injury stopped that, and now climbs and walks on a regular basis around Britain and Europe. He graduated from the University of Derby in 2016 with a First Class BA Honours Degree in Outdoor Activity Leadership and Coaching, part of which involved developing and testing a coaching tool, using video and notational analysis to easily determine where a climbers strengths and weaknesses lie and where to focus training for improvement in the future.
Eric J. Hörst (pronounced “Hurst”) is an internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and accomplished climber of more than 38 years. A student and teacher of climbing performance, Eric has coached hundreds of climbers, and his training books and concepts have spread to climbers in more than 50 countries. Eric is author of eight books (with many foreign translations) including the best-selling Training For Climbing, How to Climb 5.12, and Maximum Climbing. Eric has written more than 70 magazine articles, appeared on numerous TV broadcasts, and his techniques and photos have appeared in countless publications including Rock & Ice, Climbing, Outside, DeadPoint, Men’s Health, Fortune, Men’s Journal, Muscle Media, Muscle & Fitness, Parents, Wall Street Journal, and National Geographic Adventure, as well as European magazines such as Desnivel, Alpen, Climax, and Climber; he has also co-authored one research paper (“Behavior Analysis and Sport Climbing”, Journal of Behavioral Health and Medicine, 2010, with Dr. Richard Fleming). A self-professed “climber for life”, Eric remains active at the cliffs, traveling widely with his wife, Lisa, and sons, Cameron and Jonathan. Eric's Web site is: www.TrainingForClimbing.com.
Arno Ilgner distinguished himself as a pioneering rock climber in the 1970s and 80s. In 1995, after searching the literature and practice of mental training, Ilgner formalized his methods, created The Warrior’s Way mental training method, and began teaching full time.
Ilgner has taught clinics across the U.S.A. and abroad. He holds a BA in Geology, operated a geological consulting firm, acted as CFO for a company, and attended the Army Ranger School. He lives and climbs in Tennessee.
Ilham has been climbing for about 8 years based in Indonesia. He is in the proccess finishing graduate programme in sport science faculty at The Yogyakarta State University in Indonesia. He is an active researcher in sport climbing. His research interest is psychology to enhance sport performance, specifically in climbing performance. He conducts his research in the field of exercise psychology and mental skill training to enhance climbing performance. He is also one of caretaker of climbing organization based in the region of Indonesia.
Maria Ștefania Ionel
Maria Stefania is a Ph.D student in the field of Applied Cognitive Psychology at Babes-Bolyai University, Cluj-Napoca (Romania). As a climber for over 15 years and a Counselling Psychologist she wants to develop a
research based on exploring the cognitive and affective benefits of indoor and outdoor climbing in clinical and typical settings in order to highlight the potential of rock climbing and bouldering as a mental health tool. She has been working in private practice and in NGOs with different population and disorders. Currently she is coordinating the Development through Climbing Project, both in Transylvania (Romania) and Catalonia (Spain), and she is moving foreword from the traditional Psychotherapy towards Wilderness and Adventure Therapy Approach.
Klaus is a physical therapist, osteopath and trainer for sport climbing. As the therapist of the Austrian climbing team he has expert knowledge on climbing, training and injuries. He works at his physiotherapy and osteopathy outpatient practice „Therapierbar“ in Vorarlberg, Austria. He is a member of the “Olympic Medical Pool Austria“. Currently he is writing his Master thesis about his own developed conservative treatment methods to improve finger pain in climbers. His main focus is on nonsurgical, holistic and structural osteopathic treatment methods.
Arne Martin Jakobsen
Born in 1961. He is a professor in sport and outdoor education at Nor university Bodø, Norway. He holds a doctoral degree in pedagogy. He has been working as a teacher in outdoor education and climbing for more than 20 years. He has been climbing for nearly 40 years since 1984. The main topics of research has been in psychology and more specialized in motivation.
Chris Jenks has a PhD in Applied Linguistics from Newcastle University (England). He is currently an Assistant Professor at the University of South Dakota. His research contributes to several disciplines, including Linguistic Anthropology and Sociology. He has a number of research interests outside of rock climbing, but is especially curious about how climbers discursively construct notions of injury and performance. This line of research has the potential to inform several areas of climbing knowledge, such as how physical therapists and trainers approach their clients during consultations.
Gareth is a Senior Lecturer in Physiotherapy and Sports and Exercise Medicine. His research interest is injury epidemiology in climbing and the role of self-efficacy in performance. Gareth is an active climber and is particularly passionate about Scottish mixed winter climbing. He is a retired member of the Association of Mountaineering Instructors.
Christopher is a PhD student at the University of Jaen (Andalusia, Spain) in the department of Physical Education and Sport Studies. His research interests include exercise physiology, physical activity in an aging population, and the physiological aspects of rock climbing. Before moving to Spain and entering the PhD program, Christopher taught exercise physiology, nutrition, and rock-climbing courses at San Juan College in Farmington, NM. Christopher earned his M.S. degree in Exercise and Wellness from Arizona State University and his B.A. degree in Physical Education and Health from Northwestern College (Iowa). Christopher is an ACSM Certified Exercise Physiologist and an AMGA Certified Single Pitch Instructor.